top of page

Frozen at zero degrees, I 'Tosh'-ed my depression off Himachal's peaks

  • Double N
  • Sep 29, 2017
  • 3 min read

Impromptu trips hardly disappoint but the solo ones are the best. Office became too heavy for me and after a traumatic day, I booked an appointment with Mumbai's best psychiatrist. Then, in the very next moment, I opened another tab to book my tickets for Himachal. And this time, it wasn't going to be the usual Shimla, Manali or McLeodganj, I planned to stretch the limits.

Route: Dharamshala to Mandi, Mandi to Bhuntar, Bhuntar to Kasol, Kasol to Tosh

I wanted to leave in 24 hours. Luckily I managed a confirmed ticket in the Rajdhani till Delhi. This was my first solo trip so with much trepidation, I booked a bus to Dharamshala, planned to halt a night and then go further up. Boarding a bus filled with monks can be a tad unnerving but a pit stop at Haveli that serves a yum Punjabi Thali does magic to the nerves.

Dharamshala came 10 hours later. Since this was a budget trip, a room in the Anuj guest house, near the Dharamshala waterfall, for 600 bucks is the max I could spend. But there were no such constraints on my research on cafes in the town. You simply can't miss The Illiterati Cafe - the vibe, the view, the ambiance, top class. It boasts of a rich library and is a paradise for readers. Take out a book of your choice, order some Nutella pancakes, lotus tea, and spaghetti and voila! While your time away.

Lamb steak at The Morgan's Place (Pic courtesy: Double N)

To roam around the town, I hired a car that took me to St John in the Wilderness Church, the Dalai Lama temple, and the Dharamshala lake. But there were more cafes on my list. The Morgan's Place is one of the most talked about places in the town, for its view, the weed and the friendly ambiance. But never order the dish lamb steak. It's their biggest selling dish but still, don't. Instead, order a hot lemon tea, sit back and enjoy the view.

Next day, I left early. I took the roadways and headed towards Tosh. Traveling with the locals, I got a closer look at their daily lives -- the ladies drop their children off at school, aged carpenters travel far in search of work and office-goers carry on with their monotony and struggles. And all this happens with a haunting traditional Himachali music in the background.

Kasol: In the lap of nature (Pic courtesy: Double N)

Don't get fooled by Google, the journey is backbreaking - six hours to reach Mandi, another four to reach Bhuntar. Kasol is another two hours. By the time I reached Kasol, my bones were crackling, but probably it was the best experience of my life. Kasol wasn't in my plan, so a room wasn't booked. It was six in the evening and I was still wandering around the local lanes with my backpack. My body ached and longed for a hot cuppa. I sneaked into a cozy restaurant and the owner suggested me an under-construction room by the riverside. 500 bucks. Although the condition of the room wasn't top draw, I didn't mind because next morning I sipped my tea with the sun on my back by the riverside.

The road to Tosh was undergoing maintenance and it was extremely risky to take the bus. But I couldn't afford to miss the raw beauty of the place so I booked a cab. An hour and a half, I was amazed. Tosh is a stunner. It doesn't have fancy hotels, so all you need to ask is, "Pinky Di ka hotel kahan hai?"

Tosh: Lonely, dangerous and serene (Pic courtesy: Double N)

Pinky Di ka hotel is the last residence at Tosh located at 7900 ft with a 360-degree view of white snow-capped mountains. At 600 bucks per day, you won't get a better deal. But Hygiene freaks will need to adjust to the bedsheets and blankets provided. Just let go of the poshness and you will feel at home. The ice-cold Maggi and rock hard Nutella pancakes can be a downer but waking up to the mighty mountains, sitting in the balcony calms you. Soothes you. Washes you off the negativity.

Tosh was a soul detox for me. You don't get any network up there. So, you can't be on Hangouts or post pictures on Instagram or check-in on Facebook. Life amidst the Parvati Valley disconnects you with the world but ushers you into your inner self. It allows you to breathe.

Now, isn't that we all are missing out on?

Commentaires


You Might Also Like:
bottom of page